Oodnadatta Track

24th-26th May 2016

The Bubbler

Alberrie Creek Bridge

Alberrie Creek Sunrise

Mutonia Sculpture Park

Mutonia Sculpture Park

Plane Henge

Lake Eyre

Lake Eyre

Lake Eyre pelicans

There are some interesting stops along the Oodnadatta, we visited Mutonia Sculpture Park, a very weird sight in the middle of remote desert country.  The most impressive sculptures being Plane Henge, 2 planes standing on their tails and a giant dingo made out of a water tank.  Our camp next to the Alberrie Creek bridge gave us a taste of the old Ghan railway, we even had a walk along the embankment that was all that was left of the railway line except for some large metal nails scattered around.

The track passes close to Lake Eyre South so we stopped at the lookout, we were lucky to see it with water in it but it was hard to get a real understanding of the size of it.  We also stopped at the mound springs, first walking up the boardwalk to Blanche Cup Spring a large mound that at the top had a lush pool of water.  On to The Bubbler, this mound was bigger and there was water running down one side, at the top was another pool of water that was bubbling every now and then. As we stood watching it gradually got more and more bubbles and we could see the dirt getting lifted up from the bottom, it was mesmerising.

At William Creek we did a flight over Lake Eyre, which had 60% water coverage, just a small strip of salt lake before we were over the water, there were some wind waves at first but then it was glassy smooth with clear reflections of the few clouds in the blue sky.  There were hundreds of pelicans at one spot, it was impressive to see the large v-shaped wake they leave behind when landing in the water.

We left the Oodnadatta to head for Coober Pedy which is such a mess with tailings and mines left all over the place.  We visited an opal mine shop that was all underground.

Gammon Ranges National Park

Weetootla Gorge Campground

Weetootla Gorge – Hell’s Gate

Weetootla Gorge – Hell’s Gate

Weetootla Gorge Campground

Loop drive

Loop drive

22-24th May 2016

There were gravel roads for most of the drive to Gammon Ranges and the caravan ended up with a few decent patches of dust inside it.
Weetootla Campground was our base for the 2 nights we spent there, a quiet campground nestled at the start of Weetootla Gorge. We walked a short way into the gorge to a section named Hell’s Gate which has dark-red weathered cliffs of tillite and small pools with bull rush and sedge through them. We even saw some tadpoles so it would appear to be permanent water. It would have been a nice walk except for the huge mozzies feasting on us. A bonus was spotting a rare yellow footed rock wallaby on the way back.

We went for a drive through the national park, along the Mount McTaggart Track and on to the Wortupa Loop Track. It took a couple of hours but was a very varied drive with lots of rocks, some sandy sections, drop offs and jump ups, driving in the creek beds, through wooded sections and some open plains.  We saw lots of kangaroos and emus, one emu was running along the track in front of us for ages, we tried slowing right down hoping it would get off the road but it was still going, until suddenly it dove off of the track as another car was coming in the opposite direction. It was running quick too as we were doing around 35km/h for some of it. The best part of the drive was up on Gill’s Lookout which had 360 degree views.

After the morning’s drive on the loop we went the short distance to the popular 4wd destination of Arkaroola, grabbing lunch and filling up the fuel tank.  Being close to where we had camped the landscape was very similar, we saw people getting back from a tour where you go in the back of an open 4wd,we heard others saying they were sore for days after the same tour so it didn’t look or sound too comfortable.  Much prefer doing our own thing in our own time and comfort and not paying $155 each!

Flinders Ranges National Park

17th-22nd May 2016

Scenic Drive

Brachina East Campground

Brachina East Campground Overview

Yuluna Hike

Hawk

Mount Ohlssen Bagge Goats

Mount Ohlssen Bagge Summit

Wilpena Pound

Mount Ohlssen Bagge Sunset

We spent our first 3 nights at the Brachina East Campground which is on one of the most spectacular scenic drives that I have ever been on. Rolling hills and jagged peaks everywhere, each twist and turn revealing another inspiring view.

The nights are getting cold, it has been nicer to sit out in the sun to eat breakfast than sit inside the cold van.

The nicest walk we did was the Yuluna Hike. It took us just over three hours and does a circuit starting with great views of the Heysen Range, then leads into the ABC Range through river beds and pine forests. We also walked along Brachina Gorge from our camp site, there were red cliffs on either side and even a few decent sized springs in some sections which have created small pools.

We needed to top up our water so spent a couple of nights at the Wilpena Pound Resort.  From there we accidentally walked up Mount Ohlssen Bagge, we had planned on doing a short walk but thought we’d see what the track was like and ended up at the summit.  At 932m we could see the whole of Wilpena Pound which is a natural amphitheatre of mountains.

The following day we walked to the Wangara Lookout passing Hill’s Homestead which is a small 2 room stone homestead that has been renovated from ruin. From there it was a short but steep walk up to two different lookouts overlooking the pound, we could also see across the resort behind the upper lookout.

 

Mt Remarkable National Park

Mt Remarkable Mambray Creek Campground

Mt Remarkable Mambray Creek Campground

Mt Remarkable Mambray Creek Campground

Mt Remarkable Mambray Creek Campground

The Bluff

Hidden Gorge Hike

Hidden Gorge

Hidden Gorge

Alligator Gorge – The Terraces

Alligator Gorge – The Narrows

Alligator Gorge – The Narrows

Alligator Gorge

12th-16th May 2016

The Mambray Creek campground in Mt Remarkable National Park is set beside a wide, dry creek bed filled with large rocks. Along the creek and through the campground are huge River Red Gums, most of them have large holes in the centre some big enough to walk through.

We did a lot of walking in the park which has a wide variety of walks to choose from. Starting off we went for a hike up to the Black Range Lookout which was ascending the whole way. Each time we stopped for a rest and turned around the vista behind us was gradually revealed as we climbed higher and higher. Unfortunately the view at the lookout (480m elevation) was mostly hidden by trees. There is a much longer trail that continues beyond the lookout so we kept going for a while following the ridge line and found better views than at the lookout. Once the trail started to descend we turned around and headed back. The walk down seemed to go on forever but eventually we got back to the start where we found a couple of kangaroos on the side of the path. A mum with her older joey and another in her pouch. She was happily eating while we stood less than 2m away watching.

The following day we took the bikes out for a ride to the Baroota Homestead Ruins. It didn’t look like much was left but then realised that there were still 5 of the 6 rooms left standing, it just wasn’t very big to start with. After lunch we headed off to do the Sugar Gum Lookout Hike which follows Mambray Creek upstream along a deep valley. The final few hundred metres to the lookout are very steep but lovely views across to the next peak at the top. We had a couple of emus accompany us along some of the trail on the way back. Every now and then they would run a little way ahead only for us to catch them up again. Eventually we turned off on a detour as part of the track had water across and they kept going. When we got to the water we could see they were still coming so Shane got his camera out. The young emu just wandered across while Shane was sitting there, it got a little panicky when it saw me standing behind but just ran a few metres past so then its dad had to follow.

Our final walk was the toughest, we ventured out just before 9.30 to do the Hidden Gorge Hike. It started out going up to The Bluff, a fairly gentle climb for most of it. Great views across Spencer Gulf. It carried on ascending for about the first 2 hours before we started to head towards Hidden Gorge. We gradually made our way down a small valley with the track perched on the steep slope until we entered the gorge with red cliffs on either side. The gorge went a long way and we walked along the bottom regularly stopping to take photos. We finally made it back to the van around 3.45, our longest walk at around 18km.

Wanting to see another gorge on the other side of the park we spent a night in Port Augusta and drove in from there. It was a beautiful drive to Alligator Gorge on a windy road, twisting and turning through Horrocks Pass. We drove out to Hancock’s Lookout which has sweeping views over Spencer Gulf and the ranges. The road into the gorge is so steep and narrow that caravans aren’t allowed. There were lots of steps down into Alligator Gorge. At the bottom we headed towards The Terraces and then back towards The Narrows.

Port Wakefield

Port Wakefield Caravan Park

10th-12th May 2016

We were planning on heading north but had to take an unplanned detour towards Adelaide. Shane’s camera lens was playing up so he needed to get it looked at. Instead of going all the way to Adelaide with the van we decided to stop at Port Wakefield about 100km north of Adelaide and then just take the car in.
Port Wakefield is a surprising little town with lots of the original buildings still in use. The caravan park is right next to the water and we had a nice walk across a walk bridge into the salt marshes, although we were lucky to not have been there a day earlier as there was an extreme high tide and part of the caravan park was flooded. The owners had spent the whole day cleaning up all the mess.
It only took about 75 mins to get into Adelaide. The hardest part was working out where to park and how to get into the CBD, once we realised that the trams were free it was fairly simple. The only touristy thing that we did was a tour of the Haigh’s Chocolate Factory, an interesting free tour with some samples. Although we did end up spending plenty of money in their shop especially on the factory seconds!
As for the camera lens, that remains in Adelaide awaiting to be assessed and quoted on for repairs, though Shane can take photos again as he bought an entire new camera and lens along with all the other bits that are essential too.

Lincoln National Park

Mclaren Point

Stamford Hill

Stamford Hill

Stamford Hill

 7-10th May 2016

Lincoln National Park is very close to Port Lincoln which has been the first place to have a decent supermarket so we stocked up on some supplies.  A nice drive out to the campground even with the overcast weather revealed some great views across the bay to Port Lincoln and surrounding islands.   We set up at Surfleet Cove where there is a campground with elevated sites and views across the bay.

We didn’t have the best weather, strong winds and rain for most of the stay but we did get out during a few breaks in the weather.  We saw lots of emus, driving down a 4wd track we disturbed a family of them taking a bath in a puddle in the middle of the track.

A walk to Stamford Hill was a highlight.  Walking a few kilometres to the neighbouring cove we then climbed the hill which rewarded us with 360 degree views.

We spent an extra day here sitting out extreme weather with gale force winds and heavy rain from the significant low which has passed over today.  Throughout the last 24 hours the changing direction of the wind against the van has been evident with the rain too.  Though still not enough to clean the van and Shane’s idea for Tina to go out and scrub the van was not adopted.

Coffin Bay

3-7 May 2016

Fog over the oyster beds

View from Oyster Walk

Kingfisher

View from the foreshore

Golden Island

Coffin Bay was a relaxing stay for us, despite the name it is an idyllic town, surrounded by ocean and National Parks.

We visited the Coffin Bay National Park on 2 very different days.  Our first visit was on a day where the swell was huge and the wind strong.  The waves were brutal, crashing against the headland at Point Avoid.  The stretch of water out to Golden Island was like a washing machine.  Today we visited when there was virtually no wind with a small swell making it a lot more picturesque.

A bike ride around town and to the lookout wasn’t so relaxing as it was an 81m climb, even with the help of a strong wind it was still hard work.

Staying at Coffin Bay Caravan Park we feel like we are the hillbillies of the park.  Everyone else has these pristine cars and vans and ours are both filthy.  I keep thinking they might ask us to leave as we are lowering the tone of the caravan park.  Seriously how do these people keep them so clean?

 

Gawler Ranges National Park

30th April 2016

Just a little bull dust

It was a day of driving, 280km from Coodlie Park to Gawler Ranges National Park. We stopped in Elliston to refuel and get a few groceries. Tried to visit the bakery but it was closed! We also tried to get lunch at Lock but the IGA closed at 12, we missed it by 11 minutes. It was a long wait before we reached Wudinna our next refuelling spot and we were able to buy lunch. Not expecting much from roadhouse fish burgers, we were pleasantly surprised to find them loaded with salad, even beetroot. Getting charged $10 to fill up the water tanks wasn’t such a pleasant surprise.

Then it was time to head into the national park. Unsealed roads all the way in with some patches of bull dust to make sure the van was well and truly dusty but we were pleasantly surprised that none had got inside yet. Reaching Waganny Campground we found a spot away from the only other people’s caravan and went for a short walk.

1st May 2016

Yandinga Falls

Early morning walk

We made it to the top

Our start to the day was a walk from the campground through some woodland and across open plains to a small hill. It was so peaceful that walking through the dry grass sounded like we were crashing through the undergrowth. A short climb up to a granite outcropping and we had 270 degree views to the ranges in the distance. It was mesmerising sitting on the rock listening to the sounds of birds especially the plaintive call of magpies.
After a short break at the van we headed out in the car, first stop was Pondanna Outstation we were surprised to see a few cars and people there. We found out they were Friends of Gawler Ranges National Park who were out there for the weekend looking after the place, they invited us to look inside the house which is in really good condition. Driving along a rough track up a hill we came across views of the valley and surrounding ranges.
Yandinga Falls saw us walk right to the top of the falls which were dry except for the occasional tiny puddle of water buzzing with bees. Every time we reached the crest we’d find that it was just a bit further. Even once we were at the top of the falls there was still a way to go to reach the peak. Eventually we made it with stunning views all around.
Along the drive we saw numerous kangaroos, it is amazing to see them on the plains with lots of room to bound along at speed. They soar across the ground covering several metres in one bounce. We also spotted a couple of families of emus, each with 7 juveniles.
Back at the van we finally had lunch at 4pm, we were out a lot longer than we had expected. Later with the campground to ourselves we sat around a raging fire just a little disappointed that we had forgotten to buy marshmallows.

2nd May 2016

The Organ Pipes

Wide open spaces

The top of the organ pipes

Kolay Mirica Falls

Completing the second scenic route in the park was the goal for the day. After quick stops at the old shearing shed and Kolay Hut we walked into the Kolay Mirica Falls. These falls are made up of the volcanic rock formations that look like organ pipes. It was impressive. We even had a wedge tailed eagle soar above our heads. From there the drive climbed a hill so more good views at the top then we wound our way through the different peaks back to the campground.
We took the van around to Yandinga campground then drove out to the Organ Pipes which the park is famous for. We were a little disappointed as we didn’t think it was that much better than the falls we were at earlier. Maybe the fact that there were other people there made the difference. We’ve got too used to having all these places to ourselves.